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The ancient pilgrim path - St Patrick's Causeway


“Well I never want to see another bog, or hill, or mountain again!” – this was the reaction of one member of the Trek the Tóchar team after we had completed a 35k marathon walk in aid of Galway youth mental health charity, Jigsaw. Tóchar Phádraig is an ancient pilgrim path, stretching from Ballintubber Abbey to Croagh Patrick, Co. Mayo.

The cross country hike is a world away from the hustle and bustle of everyday life, taking us through fields, meadows, up make shift ladders, over styles and across squelching bogs. We were fortunate that we had a dry day as we embarked on our pilgrimage, which is organised just four times a year, during the summer months.

The day began at Ballintubber Abbey, where we were advised to find and carry a sharp stone with us. This would be left behind on the reek, symbolising the casting of our cares away, and replaced with a smooth stone as we emerged stronger and more enlightened.

We donned our high vis yellow jackets and off we set, at a leisurely pace, on the journey once undertaken by St Patrick himself.

It was a quiet affair as we embarked on the challenge. Old signposts with a symbol of the reek led the way, and we had it firmly in our sights, as we slowly but surely inched towards Croagh Patrick. The terrain was flat and firm, with some manoeuvring required across the bog, unless you wanted to be knee deep in gunk. Every few kilometres were broken up by the welcome sight of a support car with water and chocolate biscuits.

“Are we there yet,” we would eagerly enquire. “Not yet”, “about a quarter of the way”, or “still a bit to go” would be the inevitable and truthful response. A welcome stop came in the picturesque village of Aghadower, where thankfully, we managed to purchase some bread, butter, ham and cheese from the local shop and had the best sandwiches in the world…ever, accompanied with a fantastic cup of tea.

At times we chatted to our fellow pilgrims, or helped them along the way. At other times, we walked in solitude, watching the ever changing landscape unfold before us. Nature itself was our entertainment and there wasn’t an iPod, or iPhone in sight. We valued the man-made paths stretching out before us, whether high grass had been cut to make our journey a little easier, or simply the footprints of old guiding the way.

As we approached the bottom of the reek, our goal was in sight, and yet our legs were banjaxed. The final few kilometres had been uphill and now we really had a mountain to climb. We had been walking for hours and the final hurdle was upon us. Faced with more boggy, uphill terrain, I almost gave up as my knee gave out. The relief at reaching the ‘shoulder’ of Croagh Patrick was overwhelming, I took in the breath-taking beauty for all of one minute or so. In all honesty, I just wanted to get down and head home.

Some opted to climb to the top while others, like myself, made the cumbersome descent to the bottom, joined by light hearted happy locals and tourists, who were just starting to ascend. If only they knew! We had been walking for approx. 7-8 hours.

Approaching the finish line, I remembered to throw away the sharp stone I had carried with me. I was a little overcome as tiredness and the symbolism of the action hit home.

I had the best pint of Guinness…ever…and a bit of grub as we greeted and congratulated one another - and picked up our sought after and well-earned smooth stone.

I still have it, and will keep it as a reminder of a once in a lifetime trek along the ancient pilgrim path.

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